>>296877996
I've done about four different cloth skirts. They're all relatively short, nothing past the knee, so maybe stuff might differ for really long ones.
You end up having to use a lot of colliders with the way I do it, since its not like legs/butts are collider shaped. I tend to use 7-8 colliders, like 3 for each leg and 1-2 for the hip.
My main goals when painting skirts are usually:
1) Not needing to reset it from it getting stuck
2) Letting it rest against my legs instead of flipping back if I recline back in my chair/couch
Even though this example has a gradient of painting...its not super important. The most important parts are the red ones, which lock the vertices it affects into place. Weight painting will also affect them, which is nice if you have something tied to your skirt like a tail or something.
For 1) I basically gradually paint the red down until I get to the point where I can flip the model around a bunch and the skirt won't get stuck. This might have to go further down than you expect, but even if part of the skirt is marked red, it'll still be pushed by colliders so its not to big of a deal.
2) for two I need two things
a) for the skirt to not be too bendy. you can test this by weight painting the top of the skirt red and flipping the model upside down and letting the skirt fall down. if it falls straight down, then its too bendy. instead, it should like, fan out like a flower petal or a cup lip. ive usually had the 'straight down' issue with skirts that had too many polys, and decimating fixed the issue. ive also had higher poly skirts that don't have the straight down issue so im not sure exactly what causes it.
b) you'll want to weight painting red between the legs a bit to try to keep it flat against your legs. the problem with longer skirts with this ive found is sometimes the leg colliders will get stuck inside the skirt, so ymmv.
the picture shows a deciminated skirt plus the two red paints i mentioned
peace